Fashion

Tod’s Resort 2023 Collection

For Resort, Walter Chiapponi continued to update the Tod’s lexicon, working on a series of urban uniforms where traditional masculine codes were reinterpreted through a feminine lens, softened by a hint of sensuality and a touch of the artisanal.

Silhouettes were kept simple with an echo of ’90s minimalism and androgyny; what gave character to the exercise were the emphasized volumes and the accent on rich, tactile fabrics. Chiapponi explained that three-dimensional surfaces give depth and add a chiaroscuro effect to the perception of a shape. “There’s a spontaneous, emotional aspect to the use of a textural, imperfect material, a sense of humanity.”

Pantsuits were particularly appealing, soft-tailored in generous proportions, cut in thick linen or hemp, worn slouchy “with nonchalance,” as the designer said. Adding to the chic/relaxed feel, he used raw-edged denim spliced from vertical fringed stripes for a long trench coat belted with a matching sash.

Chiapponi pushed his experiment further, giving surfaces a twist of modernity and working on illusory effects. White leather looked crisp as poplin, while cotton was treated to feel as smooth as suede. The trompe-l’oeil fabrications were cut into a voluminous jumpsuit/shirtdress shape; it looked interesting, hinting at the designer’s elegant yet firm determination to lead Tod’s into new territories.

Source: Vogue

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